A version of this article ran in the December issue of Bicycle Retailer & Industry News.

HILDEBRAN, N.C. (BRAIN) — DeFeet founder Shane Cooper fondly remembers when the brand’s socks were “the currency of the trade shows” in the 1990s as industry types would trade them among themselves.

It was back in the days when DeFeet was a unique custom cycling sock manufacturer and before China entered into the production scene with cheaper production. Cooper’s determination to manufacture domestically was understood by some industry professionals, but his vision was to create microsockery that was true to his core principles: sustainability and performance.

DeFeet celebrated its 30th birthday in November. All the company’s nylon, poly and lycra are sourced within an 80 mile radius of its headquarters. DeFeet also makes use of Repreve, a repurposed performance fiber. Cooper told BRAIN in October that DeFeet will soon announce that it has received Responsible Wool Standard certification. This voluntary certification addresses the welfare and land use of sheep. DeFeet’s wool comes from Shaniko Farms, Oregon.

“The wool then travels to South Carolina where it is washed and then goes to Valdese in North Carolina to be dyed. Then it returns to South Carolina to be spun into yarn and then on to DeFeet. RWS will certify our entire wool supply chain, starting at the ranch and ending at the consumer. This industry-first certification is unprecedented.
DeFeet purchased wool from New Zealand fifteen years ago and sent it to China for washing, dyeing, and to Canada for spinning.
DeFeet believes that sustainability is an industry standard. They also aim to make performance socks and offer small-batch custom options with logos for customers and brands.

Cooper spoke from his office about an hour east to Asheville, saying that what we liked about domestic manufacturing was the control we had, the small production and the ability to reinvent the cycling socks.

The birth of the Aireator

Cooper explained that DeFeet was the one who created the Aireator. He switched the nylon from the outside for strength and durability, while keeping the CoolMax soft fibres against his foot. The inside was soft, allowing the foot to sweat. To allow the vapor out, we also created the Aireator mesh weave. This mimicked a bicycle shoe. These tiny vents allow for vapor to escape, so your foot will sweat. This was our secret recipe, and everyone loved it.

DeFeet manufactures nearly all of its products at its 50,000-square-foot factory. This includes shoe covers, base layers and arm and knee warmers. The brand’s most distinctive product was the sock. Johan Museeuw from Belgium won the 1996 Road World Championship wearing DeFeet socks.
Cooper stated that Team Quickstep was with Cooper and they were at the Tour de France. “So many events were taking place at this pinnacle. Our products were tested by athletes. The yarn companies instantly loved us, as we were small and agile, and they could use our new yarns to test them on the athletes. It was really exciting to be recognized instantly and have our manufacturing done here.

Cooper indicated that DeFeet also has relationships beyond cycling, such as with golfers, cyclists, and horses. “They are fit people, and they want a socks that will perform.”
QBP, HLC and DeFeet are distributors of the brand, as well as manufacturing socks for around 50 private-label firms, but it also offers a direct portal to dealers with no minimums. Cooper is trying to increase the number of direct IBD networks, which currently numbers 300. The brand makes about half its revenue from custom orders for small events and teams.

It’s not a standard sock. It’s made with our technology and is a custom sock. I’m confident that IBDs will find it. Our footprint is as small and compact as possible. It’s also responsible. It’s responsible. I know that if I have a bicycle shop and I wear socks next to the shoes and tell people to get new socks or to place socks at the counter, they will be very happy. That product will make me a 50%-60% profit.

Like a lot of the industry, DeFeet has had to raise prices — 20% last year — partly in response to supplier costs increasing and raising pay during the pandemic to retain its workforce, which numbers 35, Cooper said. Cooper explained that production has slowed down in recent quarters due to decreasing demand. DeFeet’s consumer site was “a lifesaver” and accounted for 25% of all direct-to-consumer sales.

“Our bike shops must survive and prosper, and with the consolidation going on around us, I would like to see that independent guy rise up. We are a small business, just like them.

DeFeet sales rose by 12% in 2020, and declined by 2% in 2021 during the pandemic. DeFeet announced in Sept that it has entered into a multiyear partnership with Trek Factory Racing to outfit its cyclocross- and cross-country teams.

Cooper smiled and said that “the great thing about a bicycle sock” is that even in bad times, you can still buy new handlebar tape, new socks and go riding.

A brand can also be transformed by a new machine. Cooper purchased a direct printer for garments in 2019, which allows for greater customization and more detail than knitting. DeFeet could create PrintMySock, which allowed customers to design their own pair of DeFeet sock.

Cooper stated, “The knitting technology in itself is amazing, but the printing technology is time-consuming.”

Chasing performance

DeFeet is not just about sustainability and technology. Cooper continues to chase the carrot of performance. DeFeet thought it was over sponsoring the Tour de France and World Cup teams when a different company took over its 20-plus year Quickstep partnership. Lotto-Soudal called back 2020 to inform him that it had successfully tested the DeFeet aireator sock inside a London wind tunnel, and was interested in working with the brand.

DeFeet previously proved in a wind tunnel test conducted with Quickstep that its socks saved 8 watts. This is 4 watts less than the cut and sewn Aero socks popular in England.

Cooper explained that “Suddenly, there were 12 watts saved by a Dutch company using their socks.” “I had no choice but to call BS as they used a mannequin in the wind tunnel test. They didn’t use yaw. (Yaw, the vertical Z-axis, positions the rider against wind blowing. We used a real rider to get 8 watts. So, we are now going back to the wind tunnel. Based on what we learned in 2018 as well as what we have learned with Lotto-Soudal since then, we are now working to make the world’s fastest socks again. We are hopeful to see that during the Tour de France.

Cooper smiles as he looks back at the past 30 years and says that he is happy with DeFeet’s achievements, including sustainability and performance enhancements, and even being able to survive a 2001 fire that destroyed DeFeet’s building, which halted production for nine month.

Cooper said, “Fortunately my wife Hope (Hope) has a great financial acumen.” “Don’t give me money — I can make it, but she knows how to save it — and luckily 30 years later, we’re still in business.”